GENERAL MAINTENANCE OF THE REVERCHON BUMPER CAR

1. I Routine maintenance and intervals of servicing

Every morning, chalk your tyre.
*Each month: check the fastening of car body, the nuts holding the seat in place, the current intake brushes, the contact pads of pedal contact (cleaning).
With compressed air, blow out the dust which is inside the motor, the clutch and the contactor.
* Every 6 months: polish the body, clean and grease the motor.
* Every year: grease the reducing gear, check the fitting of the base and support of the pole, grease the steering unit, take up the play of the back wheel ball bearing, clean and adjust the motor brushes. Maintenance of the exterior surface ( simple wash with water and detergent, twice a year ) then wash with a chamois leather.
*ABS: normally effected by washing at the same time as the body. If very dirty rub with a rag soaked in methylated spirits.
* Urethan foam seats: washing can be done with the same product as the body. Clean fairly frequently.
* During the wintertime smear all the chrome with vaseline
Note = avoid the use of plastic covers which retrain humidity

1. II Pneumatic bumper

The tyre of the bumper car must be sufficiently inflated. A tyre which is not inflated enough will cut up very quickly. Over inflated it will spoil the comfort and might burst.
Experience proves that the comfort of passengers and upkeep of the tyre depends on regulating the speed and inflation pressure.
If you run slowly (75 to 80 Volt), inflate to 2.0 bars (28 Lbs per sq.in.) If you run fast (maxi. 110 Volt), inflate to 2,2 bars (31 Lbs per Sq.in.)
In order to reduce the wear and to increase the sliding of the tyres, against each other, chalk your tyres at least twice a day. For this, prepare in a bucket ( 10 l – 2 gall) a mixture of French chalk and water , lightly consistant, add to this 3 tablespoons of polycell ( wall paper paste), then paint with a widebrush.

1. III Various checking
2. Back wheel: either steel or rubber, grease every 6 months, check the axle nut is tight.
3. Floor brush: remove any stones, papers, which are stuck in the wires.
4. Steering unit: greased for 2 years running (3000 hours) ;Bearings are water-tight.
5. Current intake brass brush: each month, check the motor brush and its shunt by remove in S 8497 the current intake S 8514 and the motor brush itself. (SPACE,COBRA,FURYO). For KARMA, and ALMA, check motor coil S 5034 and S 0065 ( each year )

Blow out dust with compressed-air and reassemble.

1. IV Maintenance of the motor unit

Giving attentive care to the motor will get good results, on which the return of your equipment depends.

1. The electric motor : it is an electric drive unit.

*Electric maintenance = once a year, remove the cover of the motor current intake by removing the cap S 9286, then check the motor-brush and its shunt (strand made of copper wire located inside the spring). Blow the dust out and rebuild. Once a year check and remove if necessary the motor brushes (by unscrewing caps
S 6061 on the outside motor casing side); same for the earth brush ( by removing the circlips).
*Mechanical maintenance = check grease leaks on reductor side; locate and remove seals S 5107 and S 8352 by checking if any damage. Check the play into the bearings from the motor armature without dismounting but in uncoupling the reductor only, then check rotation by hand (motor brushes out). Remove steering column each year for blowing out dust. Motor brushes must be well blown as well, before each winter time; brush holder being greased inside with contact grease.
*Changing the front rubber wheel= getting old, the rubber sticks to the motor casing, and the easiest way to remove a worn wheel is to cut the rubber with a saw after removing stop rings S 8306. Mounting should be done with a press. Then clean the motor casing thoroughly, coat it with swarfega, grease the inside of the rubber band and assemble it.
*Contactor S 9876 = every month, blow out dust with compressed- air.
* Control = The motor being correctly fitted, the car laying on its side, block the motor with a piece of wood ( and check the rotation direction !)then put power on before the resistance : the armature should not turn ( 10 RPM maxi).Power intensity reading on the control must not exceed 20 or 22 Amps.

1. Reducing-gear clutch maintenance

This particular one reduces speed of the motor armature from about 1000 RPM to 250 RPM on the motor body to obtain a speed of 12 Km/h (8 M.P/h) on the bumper car.
*greasing = greased when delivered for 24 months running, the reductor must be refilled (worn grease removed) every 4 years with grease Igol Compound (4 tablespoons)or equivalent, fusion point 250° C. In the case of a gear dismounting, clean the parts with petrol; watch out for impurities inside the ball-bearings. Check condition of seals.
*particulars when reassembling= the bearings S 5007 must be lightly greased with compound before assembling (never fill a bearing fully). The Paulstra seals must be in perfect condition, immerse them in oil before assembling, and check the cleanless on the planetary gear and shaft. Before replacing the sealing plate S 9678 grease the crown and the pinions with compound.
*grease leaks=deteriorated Paulstra seals / tightening screw S 5072 unscrewed/filling cup seam S 8323 squashed.

- V Maintenance of the accessories

1. Resistance : the resistance requires no maintenance, subject to a normal heating. Never paint it.
2. The support and base of the pole : check every 6 months that the 3 bolts fixing the pole support and the screw of the pole base are tight.

1. Contactor : Every months, blow the dust out and check the contacts of the switch.

1. Coin mechs : The coin mechanism require no special maintenance.

1. Possible breakdown, causes, cures:

1. Wiring : the electric power of the car is given by a whole set of cables. Any trouble on the circuit will concern the connection of the coin-mechs of the contactor.

1. Connection: coin-mechs – contactor , see electric drawing.

1. VI Repairing lighting breakdowns : (see drawing)

1. No bulbs light up.

Check that the power is connected to the car and that the circuit breaker has not gone (for instance by running the motor). If the test works, it means that the filament of one of the bulbs must be cut off; watch for the one concerned either with a bulb fitted on a testing socket or with a voltmeter.

1. One or several bulbs won’t light up while others are brighter than normal. There must be a short circuit, which must be found either inside the main wire of the car (cable earthing), or on a cable or connector making contact on metal support.
2. Obviously, searches are limited to the non-functioning headlights only.

1. VII Fiberglass body repair
2. Get in touch with D.P.R. for more information